|
Making
the cut
Abrasive
wheels can make short work of steel cutting. Here’s how to cut
with greatest efficiency and safety.
Whether
you are using an angle grinder or a chopsaw to cut metal, always
keep in mind the most expensive part of the operation is usually the
hourly wage of the person operating the tool, says Rick Lawson,
product manager for abrasives and accessories at Metabo Corporation.
“It’s not uncommon for the purchasing department to buy wheels
based on wheel life without considering the amount of time it takes
to complete a cut or to remove a weld. They should consider the
effects of increased labor costs due to the extra time needed by the
operators to complete their tasks with a harder wheel,” he says.
To
fully understand the metal-cutting process, abrasive experts report
that the person making the wheel selection needs to look at three
factors: The material being cut; the type of abrasive wheel and the
grinder or tool used to make the cut.
“What
do you want to do?” asks David Dorantes, Makita senior accessory
marketing manager. “Are you cutting tubes or solid stock? What is
the material? Mild steel or cast iron? And what tool do you plan to
use to make the cut? If you don’t ask these questions before
selecting the cutting or grinding wheel, you may not achieve optimal
working results,” he says.
Material
makes the difference
“Many
contractors use a general-purpose wheel because they cut or grind a
variety of materials. Their equipment may be used on rebar, sheet
metal, heavy channel or stainless steel all in the same day. For
this type of use, a general purpose abrasive is ideal. If you’re
going to be cutting a large amount of a particular type of material,
there is probably a more effective or efficient wheel than the
general-purpose one,” says Lawson. “From calls I get, it’s
apparent that many contractors don’t take advantage of the
specialized abrasives products now available to make some of their
projects more effective and profitable. They often don’t consider
a specialized abrasive until they get into a situation where they
must be more competitive than usual, they have a wheel failure or a
new employee brings their experience to the workplace.”
Wheel
selection: Tried and true or new to you?
Contractors
fall into the rut of using the same tool or product even when there
is something out there that can do the job better. The same is true
for cut-off wheel selection. “Try different wheels and compare
them to what you have been using,” says Peter Chiello, accessories
product manager at Milwaukee Electric Tool.
Chiello
has taken a variety of cutting wheels into Milwaukee’s testing
facility and measured the number of cuts the wheels can make before
they are worn out. From brand to brand, there were huge differences
in number of cuts, even though the wheels are built to cut the same
material. “In our tests of cutting 1/2" black pipe, we had
some wheels cut as few as three to more than 15 before the wheel was
worn out. With these types of cut-off wheels, the speed of the cut
was about the same, but the wheel life varied greatly. That’s why
it’s important to try new or different wheels to make sure you are
using the best wheel for the job,” he says. “We tested wheels
that cost between $1.29 and $1.99 each, and there was only a slight
correlation between price and quality,” he says.
Terry
Tuerk, Metabo Corporation’s technical services manager, concurs.
“There are ongoing formulation changes in wheels. You want to
balance the amount of work a wheel can do against its longevity.
Although contractors don’t do time studies, they can go by the gut
feel and comments from workers who use the wheels. From time to
time, take a look at what’s out there.
Encourage your people to evaluate products in the work
environment, not just some three-minute test.
There may be a better wheel out there than the one you have
used for 20 years,” he says.
Typically,
metal-cutting abrasive wheels are made out of aluminum oxide grain
held together with resins and reinforced with fiberglass. Aluminum
oxide is best for cutting ferrous metals and small-diameter
stainless steel. For extremely hard or thick metals, zirconia
alumina wheels can offer better performance, but cost more. Silicon
carbide wheels cut non-ferrous metals as well as low-tensile metals
such as cast iron or ductile iron.
“There
is a good rule of thumb to remember with abrasive wheel use,” says
Phillip Benincaso, product support specialist at Pferd. “Use a
hard wheel to cut a soft material and a soft wheel to cut a hard
material. This also correlates with the power tool being used.
Lower-powered tools, such as a chopsaw, should be used with wheels
with a softer bond. Higher-powered stationary saws should be matched
with wheels with a harder bond. If you use a hard bond on hard
material, you will get wheel glazing and even workpiece
discoloration,” he says.
The
12" or 14" cut-off wheels are either single-reinforced or
double-reinforced with fiberglass mesh. “Use a double-reinforced
wheel to cut angle iron or rebar. It will last longer, is more rigid
and can take more downward force than a single-reinforced wheel. You
will notice a slower speed of cut. You can tell a double-reinforced
wheel by the mesh fibers visible on the outside of the wheel,”
Chiello says.
Single-reinforced
wheels will do a better job cutting solid stock. More grain is
exposed and it is less likely to glaze. Under heavy load, these
wheels don’t last as long and are more likely to flex.
Wheel
thickness also plays a role in cutting efficiency, says Lawson.
“In thin wheels, a thicker wheel tends to have a longer life and
the best cutting performance. Thin-cutting wheels vary from
.040" to 1/16"- thick. The first wheels made for the thin
cut category were manufactured and labeled as .040". However it
soon became evident that the life and performance could be improved
by making them slightly thicker,” says Lawson. “Now, most thin
cutting wheels, although slightly thicker than the first ones on the
market, are still labeled as .040" because it is the recognized
identifier for the thin cut wheel family.”
Consider
the tool
The
tool greatly affects wheel selection, and improper matching of the
wheel and the tool can create an ineffective or even dangerous
scenario.
Never
put a lower speed-rated wheel on a higher speed tool. That can lead
to the wheel flying apart and could injure the operator or
bystanders,” says Tuerk. “The rpm may not always be legible on
the tool. The guard on the angle grinders helps assure the proper
size wheel is used. Be aware that the physical size of most 4
1/2", 5", and 6" grinders is similar. If the tool is
not equipped with a guard, the wrong size wheel could easily be
mounted on the machine. If you are ever in doubt about a wheel being
compatible with tool, don’t hesitate to call your distributor or
the tool or abrasive wheel manufacturer.”
Although
14" wheels are available for chopsaws and portable gas or
electric saws, the wheels are not interchangeable, says Benincaso.
“The chopsaw wheel doesn’t have the double reinforcement to take
the lateral load that a portable saw can exert. The lateral forces
can delaminate the wheel and it could shatter in the cut,” he
says.
Horsepower
is key to cutting materials. Typically, higher horsepower is needed
with harder wheels because the wheel needs power to cut through the
metal and wear away the bond to expose abrasive. “If the wheel
chatters when it’s put against the workpiece, the bond is not
breaking away and the wheel will glaze. It’s a ‘Catch-22’
situation because that means the user puts more pressure on the
wheel to make the cut, which creates more heat and leads to wheel
glazing and even marring and discoloration of the workpiece from
thermal overload,” Benincaso says. “Horsepower is a good
indicator of the saw’s ability to provide the power for heavy
loads.”
Cutting
caveats
The
experts offer some helpful tips on making metal cuts with abrasive
wheels:
Clamp
the material. “If you don’t clamp the material, you run the risk
of it jumping which could damage the wheel,” Dorantes says.
Know
how the wheel was used and who used the wheel last. “If you
don’t know who used the cutting or grinding wheel last, or how it
was used, you should replace it with a new one,” says Lawson.
Abrasive wheels can have hidden cracks from being dropped or hit
which can result in wheel failure.
Don’t
force the saw. “This is a common mistake contractors make. They
try to force the wheel into the material. Let the tool and the wheel
do the cutting,” Dorantes says.
Keep
up your guard. “Never operate an angle grinder or chopsaw without
the guard and make sure your guards are in proper working condition.
When using Type 1 wheels, a Type 1 guard should be installed on your
power tool,” says Chiello.
Use
the right wheel. “Using the right wheel on the right tool is key
to cutting success and safety,” says Tuerk. “Never use a wheel
with a different sized arbor on a tool and never bore out or modify
the arbor hole to make it fit your tool.”
A
|
|
Grain type |
36
|
|
Grit size |
P
|
Wheel hardness |
BF
|
Bonding type |
Read the
wheel
You can tell the make-up of a wheel by its coding. Here’s
how to read the code:
• First
letter indicates grain type:
A (aluminum oxide)
C (silicon carbide)
AC (Aluminum oxide/silicon carbide mix)
ZA (zirconia) (extra long life in metal)
• The
following two numbers indicate grit size:
The smaller the number, the larger the grit. Use wheels with
larger grit on softer metals and wheels with smaller grit on
harder metals.
• The next
letter indicates wheel hardness: A is the softest and Z is the
hardest; most wheels fall between M and V.
• Last
letters (optional) indicate bonding:
B (phenolic resin and reinforcement)
F (fiberglass) |
|
Do’s and
Don’ts of abrasive wheel use
Metabo Corporation offers some helpful tips about using
abrasive wheels:
Always . . .
. . . handle and store wheels carefully.
. . . visually inspect all wheels before mounting for possible
damage.
. . . make sure the tool’s operating speed does not exceed
wheel’s rated speed.
. . . make sure mounting flanges on chopsaws and gas saws are
equal and the correct diameter.
. . . use a safety guard that covers at least one-half of the
grinding wheel.
. . . run a newly mounted wheel at operating speed under no
load and with the guard in place for at least one minute
before putting it under load.
. . . wear personal protective gear. Goggles with side
shields, full face shields, leather apron and leather gloves.
. . . warn bystanders and co-workers when beginning grinding
or cutting operations.
Never . . .
. . . use a wheel that has been dropped or damaged in any way.
. . . force a wheel onto a tool or alter the size of the
mounting hole. If the wheel doesn’t fit the tool, get one
that will.
. . . exceed the maximum operating speed established for the
wheel.
. . . mount flanges on bearing surfaces that are not clean and
flat.
. . . over-tighten the mounting nut.
. . . grind with the side of a wheel designed for cutting.
. . . operate the tool without all guards in place.
. . . install a wheel designed for electric chopsaws on a gas
saw.
. . . stand directly in front of a grinding wheel, especially
when it starts.
. . . grind material for which the wheel is not designed. |
Published
in the January/February 2004 issue of
Contractor Tools and
Supplies magazine.
back
to top
|