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The “hole” story
How to be more
productive drilling holes in concrete
by Kay Falk
Size, geometry, design,
bit composition, concrete mix, proper tools and drilling technique
all play a role in successful concrete drilling, according to bit
and anchor manufacturers. They say misconceptions about these
crucial elements exist among contractors and end-users, which
affects their hole-making productivity.
Most agree
carbide-tipped bits are best for concrete drilling, but users’
actions can greatly affect their life.
“One common
misconception is that some carbide bits are suited for drilling
through rebar. Although it would be ideal to find one bit that could
drill masonry and steel effectively, current carbide, diamond and
such products are optimized for one or the other,” says Erich
Herman, DeWalt masonry drilling product manager.
“If you encounter rebar,
be prepared to relocate the hole or use a product specifically
designed for drilling through rebar,” he says.
Mike Dill, ITW Buildex
market development manager, says bit life is greatly overestimated
on jobsites. “Most users expect carbide bits to last indefinitely
when drilling concrete, block or brick. This may be true when
drilling hollow block, but it’s not true for concrete.
“If the local aggregate
in the concrete mix is very hard, drilling is difficult and slow.
This causes carbide to wear faster.”
Tom Carroll, president
of CS Unitec Inc., agrees that carbide bits shouldn’t be used where
hard aggregate, rebar or steel reinforcing wire are part of the
concrete. “Diamond bits and wet or dry drilling machines can handle
these materials,” he says. “There is a wide range of lightweight
handheld diamond core drilling equipment for hole diameters from
3/8" to 12". When cutting blind anchor or through-holes, diamond
bits and their machines are more efficient because they are
lightweight and save crews time. They drill faster, the bits last
longer and the safety slip clutch helps protect the user from jams.”
Harder not better
Ian Murphy, product manager
for Simpson Strong-Tie Anchor Systems, points out that users often
believe that harder carbide is better. “Concrete bits make their
holes by chiseling the concrete, not cutting it,” he says. “If the
carbide is too hard, it can shatter upon impact.”
Some contractors also
believe that sharp-ground carbide is better. “This isn’t necessarily
true,” Murphy says. “For hammer drilling, a sharp edge can be easily
chipped, causing the whole piece of carbide to fail under impact
stresses.”
When it comes to bit
size, the larger the piece of carbide on the drill bit, the longer
that bit will last, says Herman. “Most users don’t understand that
carbide tip geometry is as important as its size.”
DeWalt recommends
selecting a bit with a flatter carbide tip. “A flatter tip has
bigger shoulders and places more carbide in the wear area — the
circumference of the hole being drilled — and can grind away more
material over the life of the bit,” Herman says, “Compared with a
pointed tip, as a flatter tip wears, it will drill a full size hole
longer. Pointed tips wear away quickly, drilling smaller and smaller
holes until an anchor will no longer fit in the hole.”
Lenny Colasuonno, vice
president of sales and marketing at Powers Fasteners, says a larger
headed drill bit will drill faster This is a common misconception
among users.
“We have found that some
of the new Tri Cutter bits and Y cutter bits actually drill faster
because the head does not take up the circumference of the hole,” he
says. “The concrete dust extracts faster and increases the drilling
speed.”
Still other end-users
think you can drill faster by leaning or putting pressure on the
drill. “This actually slows drilling because you are not letting the
drill motor do the work,” Colasuonno says. “All hammer drills strike
the back of the drill bit while turning clockwise. Putting pressure
on the drill slows drill speed and reduces bit and tool life.”
Use tips
The manufacturers suggest
several ways contractors can lower the cost per hole and obtain
greater productivity when drilling in concrete:
• Make sure the impact
energy of the hammer transfers all the way to the tip of the bit.
“Use a rotary hammer that is rated larger than the bit being used.
Avoid using chuck adapters and always use the shortest bit
possible,” Herman says.
• Let the tool do the
work. Don’t push harder on a rotary hammer to increase drilling
speed. “Pushing harder overworks the drill motor and can cause
premature failure of the rotary hammer,” Herman says. “It can cause
the bit to bind, create excess dust in the hole and may even
overheat the carbide tip.”
Dill adds, “Apply only
enough pressure to advance the bit until you see material moving out
of the hole. It may seem like it’s taking more time, but you’re not
saving any time or money by constantly changing (and buying) bits.”
• Use proper tools and
techniques. You want a power tool that chips and rotates
simultaneously, such as hammer drills or rotary hammer drills. “A
standard drill only rotates and the user’s muscle is what advances
the bit,” Dill says. “In this case, the carbide and the brazing that
holds it to the shank will overheat and the bit tip will fail
prematurely.”
With the proper tool,
the bit tip chips the concrete while rotating, requiring less force.
“This keeps the tip cool and extends its life,” Dill says. “It’s a
good practice to back the bit out of hole periodically while
drilling to remove dust in the hole.”
• Check your bits. After
drilling 80 to 100 holes, check the bits for wear. “Worn bits drill
slower and make anchor installation more difficult,” Colasuonno
says.
• Put a bit of grease on
the bit’s shank before starting a job. “Lubricating the shank will
reduce the amount of wear on it and the chuck,” Murphy says.
• Select bits for the
job at hand.
Manufacturers agree that
bit quality affects bit life. The trouble is it’s not always easy to
determine quality by simply looking at a bit. Here are some tips:
• Check the surface
quality of the flute. It should not have any marks, chips, notches
or defects.
• High surface roughness
means low steel hardness. Good bits have a smooth surface.
• The brazing joint
should not have pores, holes or cracks and should have a uniform
color.
• Look for continuous
brazing around the tip (no voids).
• The carbide should be
on-center to the shank of the bit.
• Good-quality hammer
bits do not have sharpened cutting edges.
• Price is usually a
good indicator of quality. The processes necessary to manufacturer a
quality bit are expensive. “Shop around for price, though. Some
companies increase the price of the drill bit based on brand
recognition,” says Colasuonno.
Other things to
remember:
• Drilling speed is a function of the flutes. Generally, more free
space (air) in the flutes means the bit can pull dust from the hole
faster, which means faster drilling. You can choose between
two-fluted and four-fluted bits. Two-fluted bits will generally be
less expensive, but four-fluted bits are capable of removing more
material and drilling faster.
• Hole quality depends
on the number of carbide cutters on the tip. “When drilling smaller
diameter holes (less than 5/8") or when hole roundness is not a
major concern, a single piece of carbide across the bit tip is
usually enough,” Herman says. “These are usually referred to as ‘two
cutter' bits.”
• When quality counts on
larger-diameter holes and when some sort of anchor will be placed in
the hole, multiple pieces of carbide will help improve the
concentricity of the hole. These “four-cutter” or “multi-cutter”
bits cause less vibration, too.
• If there’s a
possibility that you may hit rebar, a quad or four-cutter head is
better. “A bit with less than four cutters can bind on the rebar and
break or jolt the drill from the user’s hands,” Murphy says.
Take care of your
bits
To ensure your concrete bits
give you long life, clean concrete dust out of the flutes. “This can
help maintain faster drilling speeds and prolong bit life. Use a dry
rag or a wire brush.
“Some bits, particularly
SDS Max and spline, come in a plastic tube. Replacing the drill bit
in the tube after use helps protect the bit from harmful elements
and prevents rust,” Herman says.
Above all, Dill says it
pays to avoid chipping the carbide. “This is the heart and soul of
the bit. Once chipped, the bit degrades rapidly.”
“Do not throw or drop
the bit,” Colasuonno adds, “It’s not too difficult to get a piece of
carbide to break off when used incorrectly. If you take care of the
bit, you can expect to get about 100 holes per bit in average grade
concrete.”
Published
in the March/April 2006 issue of Contractor Tools and Supplies magazine.
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