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Power
up!
Select
generators with enough power for the job, and connect equipment
safely. Right-sizing your generator for the job means accounting for
the in-rush or start-up current a tool needs when you first pull the
trigger. That demand can be as much as three times the tool wattage;
supplying too little power to start tools quickly leads to heat
buildup, which damages tools.
by Kay
Falk
Generators
and temporary power boxes can cause problems with power availability
and safety.
“Contractors
commonly use generators that don’t have enough power for their
needs,” says Colin Iwasa of Yamaha Motor Corp. “Undersizing the
generator damages tools and equipment.”
Matt
Leggett, of the DeVilbiss technical service hotline, agrees this is
the most common mistake contractors make with on-site power. “They
have the generator running equipment that requires more wattage than
the generator is designed to output,” he says.
Equipment
running off of a generator often demands a surge of power at
startup. “This is especially true with equipment that has an
inductive motor,” Leggett he says.
Tool
start-up can take two to three times the amount of power needed to
run it. “If the generator is undersized, it doesn’t have enough
power to start tools quickly,” Iwasa says. “A tool motor that
doesn’t have enough power to start quickly builds up heat. That
can damage the motor, and shorten its life.”
To
properly size a generator, it takes some easy math. First, look at
the volts and amps listed on a tool’s data plate. Multiply them to
figure the wattage required by the tool. Do the same for all the
equipment you want to run on the generator at the same time. Add the
different tools’ wattage and you’ll have the size of generator
to buy, with one additional consideration.
“Most
generators have an overall wattage rating and a surge rating,”
Leggett says. “If you need a 5,000-watt generator, and you’re
using tools with inductive motors, you’ll need a generator that
can produce 6,000 to 7,000 watts to handle the power surge. If the
generator is undersized, you can blow a breaker. For example, this
happens when an air compressor kicks in and you’re already
powering another large piece of equipment.”
Connections
make a difference
Rob
Larrabee of Construction Electrical Products (CEP) says different
areas of the country use portable and temporary power differently
and each method has its problems. “On the West Coast, most
jobsites use spider-type boxes fed with 6-gauge cords,” he says.
“Contractors can make longer runs and move the power source closer
to the work. This helps reduce power tool undercurrent burnout.”
Power
surges are a potential problem with spider-type boxes. “They can
back-feed through the system and destroy ground fault (GFCI)
devices,” Larrabee says. “You can have internal surges from high
in-rush, start-stop equipment like welders and submersible pumps.
External surges can occur from lightning strikes or inconsistencies
in power. We find the most common mistake with spider-type box
systems is the miswiring of the supply cord. This can damage the
GFCI devices or even leave half the box without power.”
East
Coast contractors typically build their own temporary power panels
on plywood, says Larrabee. “These are hard-wired to a source and
generally feed off a 10-gauge building wire,” he says. “This may
force contractors to use longer extension cords to reach work, which
can starve tools. “The amp capacity of a 10-gauge wire is 40
percent less than a 6-gauge wire. You can’t properly power as many
tools from a panel,” he says.
To
assure you have enough power, think flexibility. “The ability to
move the distribution equipment efficiently to accommodate the
various electrical needs of the jobsite helps ensure the proper
power will be available for use,” Larrabee says. “Crew
concentration moves as work progresses, so power must move with
them.”
Playing
it safe
Because
temporary power sources and generators provide electricity, they
need to be used safely. Here are some tips on how to do that:
•
Ground the equipment — If the generator is used outside, follow
the U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)
assured grounding conductor program. “An alternative option is to
use portable ground-fault cord sets,” says John Otto of Tower Mfg.
Corp.
“When
using portable generators for primary power, inspect the generator
to see if the output receptacles for 15-, 20- or 30-amp service are
GFCI protected,” he says. “If they are not, seek alternatives
for ground fault protection, such as portable GFCI-protected cords
sets or GFCI-protected multiple outlet boxes. All GFCIs, whether
they are in a breaker, receptacle or portable cord set, must have
third-party listing approval, such as Underwriters Laboratories
(UL).”
•
Test before use — “A damaged or miswired GFCI device may allow
power to flow in the presence of a ground fault, while you think
you’re protected,” Larrabee says. “Unless a test is done
before plugging into a GFCI device, you may not know it’s not
working until you get shocked.”
He
says factors that contribute to GFCI failures include power surges
from miswiring and constant overvoltage. These factors can weld
contacts together within the device so they can’t open when a
ground fault is present, allowing current flow.
•
Use proper extension cords — Otto says you want to use the gauge
of extension cord that complies with the National Electrical Code
(NEC) for the power being supplied. “Use 14/3- or 12/3-gauge cord
for 15-amp/125-volt service. For 20-amp/125-volt service, 12/3-gauge
is best; while for 30-amp/125- or 240-volt service, 10/3-gauge is
good.”
•
Train people — Iwasa suggests that all people using the generator
should read, understand and follow the manufacturer’s owner
manuals and instructions.
Otto
emphasizes that key personnel need to know how to turn off the
primary power if someone is being shocked or electrocuted.
Go
ahead and ask for help. “Call the manufacturer’s service center
if you’re unfamiliar with any aspect of generator use,” Leggett
says.
•
Keep it ventilated — Run the generator in an open space. “If the
generator has to be protected from the elements by an enclosure,
always keep one end of the enclosure open so exhaust fumes can
escape,” he says.
Published
in the November/December 2003 issue of Contractor Tools and
Supplies magazine.
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