Keep driving

Select the compressor, choose the right hose and maintain the tool for top productivity.

Air under pressure is a great energy supply. It can deftly power an assortment of tools, especially nailers, keeping work crews moving productively along on jobsites.

Pneumatic tool experts share their thoughts on what it takes to keep pneumatic tool systems working hard. It starts with proper selection, all the way from the compressor to the tool that’s followed up with common-sense use and maintenance practices.

Selection tips
Today’s pneumatic tools are much more sophisticated than components sold a decade ago. In the race to remain competitive, manufacturers are designing greater durability, portability and performance into the tools.

“Tools have more features now than ever before. The depth-adjustment dial on the tool eliminates adjusting the air compressor regulator to get proper penetration. That’s especially important on sheathing and roofing applications so the nail is not driven too deeply,” says John Dominice, national sales manager at Max USA.

Dominice says some contractors run into problems when they try to get their compressor to do too much. “If the compressor is undersized, users tend to first blame the tool when fasteners don’t get driven fully. It’s more of a problem on sheathing, decking or roofing jobs where fasteners are driven in rapid succession. Follow the recommendations of the tool manufacturer on compressor size to avoid this problem,” he says.

To correctly size your compressor, refer to the tool’s owner’s manual, suggests the experts. Most manufacturers sell the tools based on psi, but the cfm rating is what’s most important with a compressor.

“It’s a bit of a black art figuring compressed air demand for short, intense cycle times,” says Gary Blanchette, senior product manager at Stanley Bostitch. “Generally, sheathing jobs require a larger compressor and framing and finish jobs require a smaller compressor. A good sign that the compressor is sized correctly is that it runs for a minute, then shuts off for a minute. Running any longer increases heat, which compromises durability.”

“Make sure the compressor’s cfm output can handle the demand of the air tools. Expect about 2.6 cfm from a 2-gal. compressor. On bigger jobs, look at 8- or 10-gal. compressors or 4-gal. twin-stack compressors.

“A 4-gal., 4.5 cfm compressor should be able to run three framing nailers because the cfm demand of the tools is not truly additive because they do not run simultaneously for long periods,” says Drew Sundholm, pneumatic specialist at Prime Source Building Products.

There is some confusion among users about oil-free compressors vs. oil-lubricated compressors, says Blanchette.

“Contractors are more familiar with oil-lubed units, however, oil-free compressors won’t stain fine trim or finish work with oil that’s in the air supply. They also require a lower amp draw. Some units pull as little as 8 amps, so they can be used on house circuits. Oil-lubed units must be operated on even surfaces and have greater maintenance requirements. Oil-lubricated units generally have greater capacity, but that is changing. Also, the cost of these units is coming down.” Conversely, oil-lubricated units tend to last about 10,000 hours of operation vs. 4,000 hours with oil-free models, he adds.

Blanchette reports that contractors can do better by sizing the compressor to the job at hand. “ More is not always better. An oversized compressor costs more, weighs more and is less portable. An undersized unit won’t be able to keep up with the crew. A roofing crew of three will see nails starting to ‘ladder’ – first nail will be fully seated, the next one sticks up 1/8" and the next sticks up 1/4" and so on. “That’s a sign the compressor can’t keep up to the demand,” he says.

“Don’t buy a compressor based on horsepower of the motor,” Blanchette continues. “Horsepower is irrelevant. Look at the cfm rating and amp rating and compare it to tool demand and available power,” he says.

Bigger isn’t always better
If you are looking at new compressors, realize that bigger isn’t always better. “Contractors are matching the unit to the job. Smaller units produce less noise, especially when used in finish nailing applications when sounds often get amplified in empty rooms,” says Blanchette.

The compressor isn’t the only component that deserves attention. Hoses and couplers can also affect productivity.

“There are quality differences in couplers, and the best way to tell is the number of ball bearings in them. The more ball bearings, the better the coupling will hold and the easier it is to connect and disconnect it,” says Sundholm. “Most users prefer brass couplers over steel because the brass couplers hold up better to hard jobsite use. There are five or six styles of couplers, so make sure the coupler components match when you add or replace any component in the pneumatic system,” he adds.

With hose, there are definite good, better and best levels of hose quality: PVC, rubber and polyethylene.

“PVC is cheaper and harder and in cold weather, it coils up. It doesn’t move freely, which can affect worker speed. Rubber is a mid-grade hose. Polyethylene hose is lighter in weight than rubber, and remains flexible in cold temperatures. Both polyethylene and rubber hoses hold up well to heavy use,” says Sundholm. 

Look to 3/8" hose in heavy use applications. It will deliver the most power to the tool, especially with long runs of hose.

Stanley Bostitch introduced a new style of hose — the Prozhoze, which is 50 percent lighter than other hoses, making it a good choice for overhead applications or prolonged use. Bostitch spokespersons claim it offers unmatched maneuverability because of its lubricity and rib geometry that makes it slide better as it’s pulled around the job. The translucent yellow hose is highly visible, yet allows users to see if there are any contaminants in the line. It has screw-type fittings, making in-field repairs a simple process.

Use tips
Once you’ve sized the compressor to match the size and number of pneumatic tools that will run off the unit, the experts say there are several things users can do to assure reliable operation.

“Plug the compressor in as close to the power source as possible. Limit the length of the extension cord. It’s better to run a longer hose than it is to run the compressor off a long extension cord. If you must use an extension cord, make sure it is heavy enough. It’s important to get adequate power to the compressor because there is a spike that pulls a lot of power to get the motor started. It’s best to run it on its own 15 amp circuit,” says Sundholm.

“With a new compressor, it’s best to break it in by running it wide open with the drain cock open. This will help get parts fully lubricated before it works under pressure. Few users do that, but it will help lengthen the life of the unit,” says Sundholm.

With longer hose runs, you can get some pressure drop. If it’s a long run, Sundholm recommends running the hose from the compressor to a 5-gal. tank and then to the tool. “If you have four or five tools running off a compressor, a 4-gal. twin-stack compressor that feeds an additional in-line reserve tank will help improve air supply to all of the tools. It also helps clear up congestion of four hoses running back to the compressor.

“Reserve tanks haven’t been real popular, but as time goes on and users want to have more nailers operating, they will gain acceptance,” he says.

Blanchette warns not to increase pressure in hopes of increasing performance. “Putting a 100 psi tool under higher pressure, such as 120 psi, will prematurely wear the tool. The tool must absorb that extra power. More power is not necessarily what’s needed with pneumatic tools that aren’t performing up to needs,” Blanchette says.

Maintenance matters
For as hard as pneumatic tools work, it’s only logical they need some maintenance to keep them running in top shape. “The biggest misconception users have about pneumatic tools is that they are maintenance-free,” says Dominice.

“Tools need to be oiled daily. Put a couple of drops of pneu­matic tool oil as directed by the owners’ manual inside the tool to lubricate the O-rings. If O-rings get dry, they can wear or will hang up in the tool. Make it a part of your first-thing-in-the-morning routine,” he says.

Blanchette concurs. “Lubricating tools is very important. Generally, put two or three drops in the tool in the morning and if it’s used heavily, again at noon,” he says.

Protect the tool from moisture getting inside it. “If moisture gets inside the tool, it may interact with the oil, creating an environment for mold growth. This can gum up the tool and may cause premature o-ring replacement.

“Do not use WD-40 or another penetrating oil as a lubricant in these tools. Follow what’s recommended by the tool manufacturer. Generally, a 10W non-detergent oil works best,” Blanchette says.

Blanchette and the other experts recommend draining water that condenses inside the tank daily.

“On a humid day, a hard-running compressor can have as much as a cup of water accumulate in the tank. This sets up the inside of the tank for rust. Every tank has a drain cock, so drain it on a daily basis. If rust or water gets into the line, it could damage the tool. Also, if excessive water condenses in the tank, it will decrease the compressor’s capacity,” Blanchette says.

 “Change the oil every 300 hours or six months. Few contractors do that, but it will extend the life of the compressor. “Use a lightweight non-detergent oil, matching it to your ambient temperature. Use 10W at 32 F, 20W in 33 F to 78 F and 30W in temperatures above 78 F,” he says.

The O-rings and driver blades are wear items on these tools, and depending on their use, will need to be replaced. Following a good oiling schedule will lengthen the life of these components. Repairs should be made by a qualified technician.

Finally, watch for system leaks. “System integrity is important because even a small leak will reduce pressure and increase compressor run time and wear. Replace or tighten fittings that are leaking air. A leak costs you more than you think,” says Sundholm.

Safety matters
Dominice reminds users that tool and work safety are very important components in proper and productive pneumatic tool use.

“First, always wear OSHA-approved eye protection. Second, disconnect the tool from the air supply whenever you’re not driving fasteners and don’t carry the tool on ladders with the air supply connected.

“Use the safety features on the tool, such as the lockout switch. Don’t aim the tool at anyone and don’t use any other source of power – an oxygen tank, for example – than what’s outlined in the user’s manual. Make sure the fastener is the right size and collation is correct for the tool, he also advises users to check out the helpful use and safety tips from the International Staple Nail and Tool Association at www.isanta.org.

Published in the January/February 2006 issue of Contractor Tools and Supplies magazine.

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